Choosing Buttons and Fastenings for Handmade Cardigans

Start with the fabric, not the button tin

It is tempting to choose buttons because they are pretty, but on a handmade cardigan the button is a small weight hanging from the front band. That weight pulls on every row below it. A heavy button on a fine 4-ply cardigan will drag the band out of shape, while a tiny 11mm button on a chunky aran cardigan will look lost and may not hold the fronts together. Before you open the button tin, look at your knitted fabric. Squeeze it, hang a swatch over your hand, and ask how much support the band can give. The right fastening should feel like a natural part of the garment, not an afterthought.

Match button weight and size to your yarn

As a practical guide, fine yarns need light, small buttons. For 4-ply, lace and light sport weight, aim for 11mm to 15mm buttons in mother of pearl, thin wood or lightweight polymer. Double knitting and worsted weight suit 15mm to 20mm buttons. Aran, chunky and super chunky cardigans can carry 20mm to 25mm buttons, but they must still be light enough not to sag. A 25mm wooden button can weigh 4g to 6g; three of those on a soft chunky band will pull the front down. If you love a heavy button, use fewer of them and reinforce the band firmly.

• Fine yarns: 11–15mm, light materials, more buttons placed closer together.
• Medium yarns: 15–20mm, wood, corozo, shell or smooth resin.
• Bulky yarns: 20–25mm, but check the total weight of all buttons before committing.
• Children’s cardigans: smooth, rounded edges and a secure thread shank so nothing catches.

Think about shape, material and how the cardigan will be worn

Flat buttons sit close to the fabric, which can crush a thick knitted band. Shank buttons, or flat buttons sewn with a thread shank, stand slightly away and allow the band to sit naturally. For a cardigan worn open most of the time, choose lighter buttons and space them further apart. For one that will be buttoned to the neck, every button takes strain, so firm buttonholes and a strong band matter more than ever. Consider washing: wooden and horn buttons may need removal before laundering, while shell and polymer are usually more forgiving. Colour can blend quietly or act as a feature, but a contrast button draws the eye to any gaping, so test the closure first.

Reinforce the band before you sew a single button

The front band is the workhorse of a buttoned cardigan. If it is soft and unsupported, buttons will pull through the buttonholes, the band will stretch, and the fronts will gape. Reinforce both bands before you sew anything. For a knitted-on band, you can work a row of slip stitch or single crochet along the wrong side to firm it up. For a picked-up band, consider knitting it double or adding a strip of 10mm grosgrain ribbon along the inside. Sew the ribbon in place with a herringbone stitch, keeping the tension relaxed so the band does not pucker. If the band is already too stretchy, a narrow strip of interfacing can help, but always test it on a swatch first. The buttonhole band needs the same treatment as the button band; otherwise the buttonholes will distort and the closures will not sit level.

Position, test and adjust the closure

Mark button positions with removable stitch markers or pins. The top button usually sits at the fullest part of the bust or just above it, and the bottom button at or slightly below the natural waist. Space the rest evenly, but let the cardigan’s style guide you. A cropped cardigan may need only three buttons; a long coatigan may need six or seven. Once marked, baste the buttons in place with a contrasting thread and try the cardigan on. Sit down, raise your arms, and bend forward. Look for gaping between buttons and pulling at the band. Adjust the spacing if needed. Buttonholes should be large enough for the button to pass through comfortably but not so large that the button slips out. Vertical buttonholes are often more secure for heavy buttons, while horizontal buttonholes can stretch open. For knitted buttonholes, work a firm cast-off edge or a crochet loop that matches the button diameter plus its thickness.

Final checks for a cardigan that hangs well

Wear the cardigan for an hour before you decide the buttons are perfect. Check the front edge in a mirror: does it hang straight, or does it curve towards the heaviest button? If a button pulls, add a hidden press stud or hook and eye behind it, or sew a smaller backing button on the inside to spread the strain. Sew buttons with strong thread and always create a thread shank for thick fabrics. For very heavy buttons, use a small backing button inside the band. Finally, wash a swatch with the buttons attached to check for colour bleed or shrinkage. A well-chosen button is not just decoration; it is part of the cardigan’s structure. Get the weight, reinforcement and spacing right, and your handmade cardigan will hang beautifully for years.